Coral Jewelry , Treasures from the Sea

Antique Carved Coral and Cloisonne Ring

https://www.etsy.com/listing/153258994/antique-ring-coral-and-cloisonne?ref=shop_home_active

Coral is one of four organic gems, the others being pearl, amber and jet. Colors of coral range from white to red and sometimes pink and white, and black. The most valuable corals are red, black and pink. Most coral is quite soft and, therefore, needs to be treated gently, especially when worn as a ring. Being comprised of calcium carbonate it can easily dissolve in acids so it should be kept away from even gentle acids such as lemon juice or vinegar.  In fact, touching lemon juice to coral is a simple test to determine its authenticity. If it is coral the lemon juice will begin to dissolve it. This test should be performed with caution on the underside of a piece to prevent ruining a lovely piece of  jewelry. 

Red coral is the most desirable and most expensive type of coral. It  can be found in the Mediterranean and in the Atlantic Ocean coastal regions of Portugal and Northern Africa. Other types of coral can be found all over the world, including the Great Barrier Reef of the east coast of Australia.  Most coral, because of the associations with the reefs hold a prominent place on the endangered list.

Coral jewelry has a prominent place in the history of jewelry and it has been a favorite since ancient times, dating to the Iron Age. Coral also plays an important role in religious history, and there are may myths and tales associated with coral. It was once believed that a piece of coral carried on a ship could protect against lightning. It was also thought to drive evil out of a home. Coral was also associated with the Greek goddess Minerva and was thought to have special powers against witchcraft, poison and robbery. Marco Polo's writings about coral may have triggered the craze for coral in ancient Rome where it was often beautifully carved and paired with gold in fabulous jewelry.

Today, the deep red Mediterranean coral, known as oxblood coral because of its color, is the most sought after and is bringing premium prices. Salmon color coral is also coveted. While antique jewelry is made of natural sea coral in its natural color, today's coral may be dyed to emulate the coral of earlier times. It is still very attractive but should be priced at a much lower cost than untreated coral.

Maud Frizon, The Queen of Vintage Couture Shoes

https://www.etsy.com/listing/152815413/maud-frizon-vintage-couture-shoes-sz-556?ref=shop_home_active

What Manolo Blahnik is to shoes today, Maud Frizon was in the 1960s and 70s. Her shoes were coveted, collected, and worn with pride.  In the 1960s and 70s Maud Frizon shoes were something to aspire to. When you wore a pair of Maud Frizon shoes you walked a little taller, knowing that you had something special. The photo above is of a vintage pair of golden metallic leather and embroidered Maud Frizon shoes from her Paris salon. 

Maud Frizon was a fashion designer specializing in women's shoes. She began her career in the 1960s as a model for Parisian Haute Couture Houses of Nina Ricci, Jean Patou, and André Courrèges. At the time models had to provide their own shoes to match the clothes designers assigned them for their runway shows and photo shoots. Frizon disliked the available shoes from other designers, and in 1969 elected to create her own and opened her first boutique in the St. Germain des Pres district of Paris.

That first shoe collection, with each pair hand-cut and finished, was praised by critics as sexy and unpredictable. Frizon was an immediate success. Building on the traditions of Beth Levine and foreshadowing the later designs of Manolo Blahnik, Frizon shoes were showy and extravagant, and her name joined the ranks of the haute couture boutiques. At the height of her success in the 1980s her reputation was similar to that of Blahnik today.

Frizon often used expensive and everyday materials together in unusual combinations: lizard and snake, suede and satin, canvas and crocodile. Brigitte Bardot was a regular at the boutique, famous for her love of Frizon's high-heeled Russian boots.

While the brand of Maud Frizon still exists (she sold the company), the shoes do not have the same flair and elegance of her original designs. Original Maud Frizon shoes are still something to aspire to.

The Lure of Rhinestones

Signed Weiss Vintage Rhinestone Brooch

https://www.etsy.com/listing/152812149/weiss-vintage-rhinestone-brooch-signed?ref=shop_home_active

Did you ever wonder why rhinestones are called rhinestones? It's because they were originally beautifully colored natural quartz pebbles sourced from the Rhine River during the late 1800s. They were immensely popular, and as with most popular things that are natural, they were soon depleted. Once they were gone, imitation glass pebbles were used instead. 

Glass has been used in jewelry since ancient Roman and Egyptian times and even before, but it was taken to a new level by J. Strasser, an 18th century German jeweler who invented a flint glass with a high lead content that equalled the glitter and grandeur of diamonds. If you are lucky enough to find true Strass stones today, grab them and hang on. They are the cream of the crop of antique costume jewelry.

By 1891, Swarovski revolutionized the world of costume jewelry with his invention of a new machine that could mechanically cut and facet glass. This allowed glass gemstones to be manufactured in a fraction of the time that it had previously taken cutters to do it by hand. Swarovski also came up with the idea to take a cue from the foil backed stones of the late 1700s and plate the backs of the crystals with silver or gold to increase their sparkle.

It is very important not to get foil backed stones wet or you can ruin them, so do not wash your Strass or rhinestone jewelry. Just polish with a soft cloth to keep it beautiful. If it has become very oily from touching, then spray some glass cleaner onto a soft cloth, not directly on the stones, and gently wipe away the oil making sure to dry the jewels thoroughly.

Today, Swarovski crystals dominate the world of costume jewelry, but glass jewelry is also promoted under the name of sea glass. Sea glass jewelry can be very beautiful in a soft, delicate way, but if you want serious vintage sparkle that rivals a diamond, then rhinestones are for you. Vintage rhinestone jewelry by famous name makers such as Weiss or Eisenberg can generate premium prices, but there are still bargains to be found which is what makes hunting for it so much fun. It is hard to resist all that glitter.

Trends and Treasures

A very beautiful white jade and antique Chinese enamel necklace.

http://forgottenluxury.com/products/white-jade-enamel-bead-necklace

Yesterday I went to the International Gem and Jewelry Show looking for bargains, things to wish for, and to spot upcoming trends. From my years of going to gem and jewelry shows, I have found that items being promoted at the show usually become the trend within the next three to six months.  This show featured a lot of fabulous large rings, much more ornate that I have seen in years. There were amazing mogul style creations of multiple gemstones or single stones surrounded by stones of an alternate color. Most were made of silver, or an alloy of gold and silver which I was told was a technique used by ancient Egyptian jewelry makers.

Another trend was enamel jewelry. I have been a big fan of enamel jewelry for a long time, being drawn to the exquisite enamel work of antique Chinese jewelry. The current enameled jewelry does not have the same delicacy of the antique pieces but it is still very attractive. I was able to snap up a few fabulous antique enamel beads.

At this show there was no particular trend toward one featured gemstone. At a past show I purchased a gemstone that was just being introduced at $1.00 per carat. I bought a one hundred carat stone. Two shows later that same stone had increased to become over $100 per carat, because of its size. Only small gemstones were left available. The one hundred carat stone made a fabulous pendant. Taking a chance on a newly introduced gemstone can be a gamble, but it can be a gamble that definitely pays off - and if you love it  you will always have a winner.

Outrageously large baroque pearls were everywhere at prices from moderate to very high. One can only cringe at what the mollusk must go through to produce such huge pearls.

Because gold prices are still very high, the trend toward using silver, silver alloy and gold plated bronze metals is likely to continue - and don’t be surprised if you see a lot of enamel and a continuation of large size jewelry for this year’s holiday season.

Antique Chinese Embroidery

https://www.etsy.com/listing/130163355/pair-antique-chinese-silk-embroidery


Chinese embroidery on silk dating from the 19th century or earlier is an exquisite work of art.  Although I have been doing needlework all my life from the age of five, I am so often amazed by the intricacy, delicacy and variety of stitches used in antique Chinese embroidery. Shown above is a beautiful pair of silk pillows featuring exquisite antique Chinese silk embroidery dating from the late 18th/early 19th century - a time when hand done needlework was at its finest. This is some of the most intricate embroidery I have ever seen with some stitches that defy definition. It would be hard enough to find a single embroidery of this quality but to find a pair is very rare.The embroidery is hand stitched to deep grayish sage green double weight corded silk with double borders of 19th century trim. The same silk fabric is on the back. 

I was so pleased  yesterday to discover a new source of exquisite Chinese embroidery being currently produced  and presented by Mulan Silk Art. I had to look twice to make sure it wasn't a painting of birch trees, but the images are created with thousands of tiny stitches. It takes hundreds of hours to produce an image and they are breathtaking. It is wonderful to learn that this amazing skill is still flourishing.


https://www.etsy.com/shop/MulanSilkArt?ref=pr_faveshops

Dare To Be Different

https://www.etsy.com/listing/152511794/vintage-rhinestone-bracelet-glamour-to


Fashion rules are so over. When I was growing up there were so many fashion rules that made no sense to me, like don't wear white after Labor Day, you can't wear navy blue with black, or black with brown, you can't mix gold and silver - or my favorite: a lady never goes out without a girdle. Thankfully, those rules are all dead and buried. We are now living in the world that Buckminster Fuller envisioned when he intuited that there would come a time when we could wear clothing across all cultures and periods of time. Unless you live in a really backwater area, you are free to mix Asian, African, European or clothing of your own creation without resulting in a call to the fashion police. Finally we are free to be who we are and to express our sense of personal style.

Diamonds and rhinestones were once thought only suitable to be worn in the evening by women over the age of 40. Another stupid rule dead and buried. Wear your rhinestones, or diamonds if you can afford them, whenever and wherever  you please. Wear a fabulous rhinestone bracelet along with your bikini? Why not? Or wear it with your torn jeans and your hair tucked into a baseball cap when you are doing chores? Again, why not? If it makes you feel beautiful and glamorous then by all means never take it off.

"There is nothing in a caterpillar that tells you it's going to be a butterfly". - Buckminster Fuller

Go and be that butterfly!

Hospitable Pineapples

https://www.etsy.com/listing/152513715/pair-antique-rosewood-handcarved?ref=shop_home_active



What do pineapples have to do with hospitality? Quite a bit. The pineapple is a symbol of hospitality and during the 19th century and earlier it was used extensively in the homes of the well to do. The concept of hospitality--the warmth, charm and style with which guests were taken into the home--was a central element of the society's daily emotional life and was portrayed by pineapple motifs in various locations throughout the home. This photo is of a very beautiful pair of hand carved exotic rosewood pineapple finials from the 1800s which could be used on a mantel, as bookends, or in tablescapes to carry on the tradition of the hospitable pineapple.

What Is Fortuny?

A pair of Fortuny Orsini pattern pillows from my shop.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/152289091/pair-fortuny-designer-pillows-orsini?ref=shop_home_active

It occurred to me that some people may not be that familiar with Fortuny's back story. So here is a  a little background. 

Fortuny fabrics are created from a secret process and are known around the world for their sumptuous luxury. There are copycats, but there is only one Fortuny....the textile of pure luxury invented by the brilliant Mariano Fortuny in 19th Century Venice.

The brilliant, enigmatic Mariano Fortuny was born into a family of renowned artists in Granada, Spain, in 1871. In 1889 the family moved to Venice, where Fortuny would establish himself for the rest of his career. He entered the fashion industry in 1907, with the introduction of one of his most notable achievements, the Delphos gown, inspired largely by Greek sculpture. It was a garment, both elegant and versatile, that seemed to achieve the impossible: simultaneous simplicity and complexity. His revolutionary garments emphasized the female body in motion so well that notable dancers, such as Isadora Duncan, coveted them. Soon after, Fortuny began work on the textiles that are still manufactured today. The production of these textiles was the culmination of his knowledge of engineering, color, design, and art, into one manifestation of pure artistic genius.

Fortuny was influenced heavily by the history and romance of the past, and his textiles borrowed designs from the Renaissance and Byzantium, from the Arabs, Persians, Copts and Indians, from the golden age of Flanders and ancient timeless and avidly sought after by connoisseurs.

Fortuny's obsessive quest for perfection led to importing only the finest natural pigments from around the world to color his textiles. He invented the industrial process for printing his designs on fine white cotton to reproduce the silky raised effect of brocade. This was an immensely complicated technique for printing superimposed colors but the result was a triumph and allowed the textiles to be made available for home decor. This painstaking process continues today.

Fortuny textiles have been compared to "woven moonlight", gracing the homes of the aristocracy worldwide.

Fortuny Mosaic Pillows

I am really enjoying designing what I term Fortuny mosaic pillows made from a variety of Fortuny fabric patterns and borders. Working in this way adds a new dimension to the beauty of Fortuny and each is completely one of a kind.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/152174433/fortuny-designer-pillow-mosaic-cimarosa?ref=shop_home_active

This pillow above is comprised of a center panel of Cimarosa pattern in terra cotta and cream with complementary borders of Glicine and Caravaggio. Custom dyed tassel trim completes the look.

Below is another Fortuny mosaic pillow created from a center panel of Lucrezia in mottled greens and metallic gold with borders of Glicine in mottled ocean blues. Custom tassel trim is the luxurious finishing touch.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/150296413/reserved-fortuny-designer-pillow-cushion?ref=shop_home_active

About Amber

Amber is the fossilized sap of pine trees dating back in time about 40 million years. In the Neolithic Period (4000-1900 B.C.) people began using amber as a decorative article. Later, toward the end of the 8th Century B.C. the Greeks used amber in inlay work with gold and ivory. Amber had both decorative and medicinal uses to the ancient Romans who burned the white variety as an aromatic cure for respiratory diseases and ear infections. From ancient times, and even into today, there are people who believe that amber has magical powers because it is warm to the touch, very light in weight for its size, produces an electrostatic charge when rubbed, and exudes a sweet, piney smell when heated. Baltic amber is the most highly prized of all the amber available on today's market with egg yolk amber being high up on the desirability list. Amber should receive the same care as pearls in keeping it away from perfumes and chemicals which can damage it. Like wearing pearls, when you dress amber should be the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off.

This natural Baltic Amber ring shows natural sun spangle inclusions.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/151930238/vintage-baltic-amber-and-sterling-silver?ref=shop_home_active

This huge natural Baltic amber pendent is carved in an organic form and hangs from sterling silver fittings and necklace.
Coming soon to www.ElegantArtfacts.etsy.com

Fortuny Pillows

Fortuny is one of the world's most beautiful - and expensive - fabrics retailing at up to $600 per yard for new product. Antique and vintage Fortuny can sell in the thousands of dollars. But Fortuny is too beautiful for just a very wealthy few to enjoy so I like to make it affordable for as many people as possible by creating Fortuny mosaic pillows. This pillow above is created from a central panel of the Peruviano pattern with borders of Fiaccola and Glicine. I save every scrap to create these one of a kind Fortuny mosaic pillows. This one is $95 at Elegant Artifacts with free shipping in the USA. All my pillows are handmade in the USA with custom dyed trims, silk backs and plump feather and down filling.

Some of my antique Fortuny pillows have sold for thousands of dollars, but I do try to always have some that are as reasonably priced as I can possibly make them.

www.ElegantArtifacts.etsy.com

Welcome to Elegant Artifacts!

Elegant Artifacts is my shop on Etsy www.ElegantArtifacts.etsy.com where I sell designer and vintage jewelry, Fortuny and vintage pillows, original art and vintage finds. My original jewelry and pillow designs are one of a kind, handmade in the USA. Whether priced at $20 or thousands of dollars, the quality is always the finest. A portion of profits is donated ot STOLA Saluki Hound Rescue. 

I will be blogging about design, design trends, jewelry and vintage finds, so welcome to Elegant Artifacts as I move move forward to launch this blog.

I have been a professional interior designer and color consultant for twenty-five years and a jewelry designer for about fifteen years. I love beautiful things and look forward to sharing my special finds and favorite objects with Etsy shoppers - and I'm always open to offers whenever possible so don't be shy. I design and make jewelry by combining gemstones and natural gemstone beads with vintage or antique artifacts to create one of a kind designs. I also love to design using Fortuny fabric and exceptional vintage or antique fabrics made up into designer pillows. When I shop for my interior design clients I am always looking for unusual vintage or antique items so I am now offering a Vintage Finds section in my shop.

I literally grew up in the antiques business, as a child playing in the antiques shop my grandfather ran in London. He had a guard rooster who would fly at anyone he didn't like the look of. Quite eccentric I suppose but he was a great rooster. I purchased my first antique at the age of five, a small ring that I still treasure. I still love antique and vintage items and sell them at my Etsy shop and through ForgottenLuxury.com.

I also have a great love of dogs and donate a portion of sales to STOLA - Saluki Tree of LIfe Alliance, the national nonprofit rescue organization for Saluki hounds, the world's first domesticated dogs www.stola.org.

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